The sea around Kalymnos, especially off the beaches of Massouri, is heavenly. It is about a kilometre across to Telendos, the island that peeps into the background of all the famous climbing photos from the Grande Grotto. We had enjoyed a few little dips at the beaches but hadn’t had a ‘proper’ swim. So on a rest day the Ginger hired himself a kayak and, beer in hand, he chaperoned me as I swam across. I think the people watching from the beach were a little confused about why he wasn’t letting me in the boat. It was a beautiful and still day and the water looked like glass from the beach. Even in the water it was remarkably calm, only a few little…