Panormitis Studios are a family run set of studio apartments, terraced into the Kalymnian hillside just outside of Massouri.

The staff (which as far as I saw consisted of the uncle with the awesome bouffant hair-do and the endlessly working nephew – probably more family behind the scenes) were extremely helpful and friendly. It was no problem to call us a cab or explain the mysteries of fast growning Kalymnian plants.

The rooms are basic but clean and airy. Only a few of the rooms seem to feature a double bed but the singles can be easily pushed together. It’s a bit warm in southern Greece for snuggling up anyway. The bathrooms are the irritating greek/turkish style where everything gets wet becasue there is no separation of the shower and toilet/sink. We (ok, mostly me) were unable to adjust to this and so used a slightly excessive number of towels to dry everything down. I felt a bit sheepish when the helpful nephew came for the laundry. Of course there is the ubiquitous no-flushing-of-the-toilet-paper thing as well. The kitchenette was basic (just two hobs, fridge and cooking and eating gear for two) but workable. Dinner parties were BYO plate. The best thing about the rooms is definitely the views on offer. From through your blue wooden shutters or on your white balcony there is a sweeping panorama of the Agean sea, the majestic rise of the island of Telendos in the foreground and sweep of an arm of Kalymnos to your right. The play of light, water and land was sublime.

Of course, not every room has the sea view. Although I think it was definitely worth the extra five euro a night we cheaped out for the last week or so of our holiday and took a back room. This was still totally fine but lacked the romance of the sea side balcony. On the other hand, while visiting our back room neighbours we could enjoy a view of Grande Grotto, which is of course fairly impressive.

Panormitis studios also offers a pool (complete with sea view). It is an absolutely lovely spot but at the time of our visit the pool seemed to be suffering from some kind of filtration problem and was a bit icky after the first week (during which it was perfect).

It cost us 25 euro a night for the sea view room and 20 for the back room. It is definitely possible to negotiate a lower rate for long stays. Long stay guests don’t seem to receive as much in room assistance (as in, the sheets and towels don’t seem to be changed) but you can ask to use the laundry for that and your disgustingly smelly climbing gear.

Panormitis Studios are well situated, clean and comfortable. Don’t go expecting the Hilton but if you want simple and pleasant accommodation at a reasonable price, you’ll love it.